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An Important Offering Of 2004 Chateauneuf
du Pape........ Below are my choices from the tasting. I will, of course, be buying all of the usual suspects (Vieux Telegraph, Pegau, Beaurenard, Beaucastel, Autard, etc.) later as they become available. Note that, like last year, deliveries will stretch from March through the summer and perhaps even into the fall. You won't be billed until arrival and final allocation. I am including the comments of Steve Tanzer's International Wine Cellar on the 2004 vintage in the Southern Rhone for your reference, and where I can, Josh Raynold's comments on individual wines as well. The 2004s have not been reviewed by Parker or Spec yet but my advice is to secure your wine before the inevitable press onslaught. From Josh Raynolds International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 2006 "For all the excitement over the 2004 harvest in the north, the enthusiasm in the south was even greater. The growing season of 2004 began with a dry, cool spring, followed by typically warm summer conditions through mid-August. At that point, temperatures dropped and there was intermittent rain for nearly three weeks. The rains, which followed a very dry spring and summer, were welcomed, and were accompanied by relatively cool nights (ten evenings saw the temperature drop below 15oC). A steady mistral served to slow down the maturing process and enabled the grapes to retain strong malic acidity (acidity levels had previously been high in many spots due to a blockage of maturity, the result of drought conditions in mid-summer). The high malics, in turn, set the stage for extended secondary fermentations and may have resulted in greater-than-normal complexity of the wines. The weather then warmed up and turned drier after the first week of September and was often quite hot during the second half of the month. These near-ideal conditions during the last six weeks of the season allowed the grapes to gain "an optimal ripeness that is not so frequent," according to Michel Tardieu, who works with growers throughout the Rhône Valley. The white grapes were mostly harvested during the second week of September and the red grapes were picked from then through the end of the first week of October-just in time, as steady rains began to fall throughout the Southern Rhône on October 9. In Châteauneuf du Pape, the mourvèdre, which thrives in long growing seasons, was especially successful. While the overall harvest of 2004 was anywhere from 10% to 33% below average, the crop level was more robust than what was produced by the stressed vines in 2003. Two thousand four is a vintage that plays seamlessly into a movement among many growers I visited away from wines that are outsized, overripe and ponderous. Christophe Sabon of Domaine Janasse summed up the opinion of many producers when he told me: "I used to want color and power above all else. Finesse used to seem like an excuse for dilution, but now complexity is what I am after." The 2004 white wines, especially, are lovely, balanced and suave, with fresh, perfumed aromas and precise, energetic fruit, while their 2003 predecessors were usually more blowsy and heavy, sometimes struggling under their own weight and richness." 2004 Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape 'Tradition' $31.00 NET JR- Dense but fresh, loaded with strawberries, raspberries and plums. Good spicy finish with just a ghost of wet earth. This has been a great bargain for the past three vintages. ST: Deep, dark red. Pungent aromas of spicy red berries, smoked meat and dried rose. Bright and fresh in the mouth, with vigorous strawberry and raspberry flavors framed by fine, dusty tannins. There's excellent energy and tang to the focused, persistent finish. 89-91 points 2004 Domaine de Boisdauphin Chateauneuf du Pape $31.97 NET JR- A new producer to me, this was my pick in the 'bargain' category for its great, smoke infused wild strawberry fruit. Lovely, pure Chateauneuf with classic pretensions. Very highly recommended. 80% GR, 20% SY 2004 Domaine Moulin-Tacusel Chateauneuf du Pape $32.50 NET JR- Always amongst my favorites of the Old School, the 2004 is easily the best to M-T to date. Bright and fresh with plenty of smoke, white pepper and a ton of lavender. What a bouquet! 2004 Domaine des Relanges Chateauneuf du
Pape
'Cuvee Vigneronne' $35.25 NET JR- Another newby for me, this was juicy, juicy, juicy with a spicy edge and great weight. Thoroughly attractive but serious juice too. 70% GR, 30% SY, 100% delish! A value at this price too. 2004 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape $46.25 NET JR- Creamy textured with a bit of oak still showing, this was very, very dense but without the brightness and higher tones of many of the others. Dark, lush and thoroughly beguiling. Maybe the most impressive V-D to date. The white is very good too. 2004 Bousquet des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 'A La Glorie de Mon Grand-Pere'$46.25 NET JR- This is fully 98% Grenache and it shows. Lovely thick plum jam nose and texture. One of the few in the bigger-is-better mold. Hard not to love this one! It may also last as long as any on this list. ST: Deep, dark red. Superripe aromas of prune, jammy cherry and mulberry. Extremely rich and sweet in the mouth, showing a thick texture and concentrated dark berry liqueur flavors framed by solid tannins. As ripe and full-blown as this is, it has power and energy, with good lift to the finish. 91-93 points |
 2004 Domaine de la Cote de L'Ange Chateauneuf du Pape 'Cuvee Vielle Vignes' $51.50 NET JR- My note here was simple...."Wow." Easily already one of the most complex wines of the tasting. It was huge and powerful but not without subtlety and layers of flavors. Very impressive wine. ST: Deep red. Rich, pungent, earthy aromas of dark berries, roasted coffee, cocoa powder and woodsmoke. Lush and concentrated, with intense flavors of dark berry compote, mocha, candied licorice and cracked pepper. At once sweet and structured, this boasts excellent palate coverage and finishes on a gently tannic, sweet cherry note. 90-92 points 2004 Cuvee du Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape 'Reserve Sixtine' $59.75 NET JR- oops. The bottle was corked. But over the past few vintages this has been as solid as they come. ST: Saturated red color. Ripe, fragrant, rather powerful nose offers cherry, red plum, minerals and dried lavender. Then brisk and elegant in the mouth,with sharply focused red berry, candied licorice and cracked pepper flavors that linger beautifully on the spicy finish. A seamless wine with essentially gentle tannins. 90-92 points 2004 Mas de Boislauzon Chateauneuf du Pape 'Cuvee du Quet' $63.50 NET JR- 2004 is obviously a strong Mourvedre year and the Quet proves the point. It is mammoth in scale with lots of black (as opposed to the white of Grenache) pepper and blackberry liqueur flavors. This is dense and thick but unmistakably 2004 with its precocious complexity and bright acidity. ST: Inky dark ruby color. Explosively aromatic nose offers a remarkable range of red and dark berry aromas that seem to build exponentially in the glass. Lush, round and sweet-you could use this for a kir, although it might be too strong-but also fresh and focused, with tangy acids sharpening the raspberry, cassis and wild strawberry fruit. Finishes silky, fresh and very long, with impressive purity and focus. 93-95 points 2004 Domaine Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape 'Cuvee de mon Aieul' $89.50 NET JR- 100% Grenache. bright, almost lemon-y with a distinct orange marmalade, kirsch component. Young and not put together yet but you can tell all the parts are there! Has amazing density with an obvious, bright edge that distinguishes it from the outsized 2003. ST: (the vines used for this 100%-grenache cuvee range from 75 to 89 years of age) Dark ruby-red. Flamboyantly aromatic nose combines fresh red berries, cherry cola, wild herbs, floral oils and grilled nuts. Lush and round but juicy, showing a sweet, concentrated berry and wild nut flavor that struck me as cross between a young vintage Port and a 30-year-old tawny. Intensely flavored and wonderfully sweet on the long finish, with superconcentrated raspberry and kirsch flavors. 93-95 points 2004 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape very limited.... inquire JR- not tasted. ST: Dark violet with a bright rim. Powerful, intensely floral aromas of kirsch, candied licorice and rose oil, plus a sweet damp earth quality that reminded me of a great young vintage port. But this is by no means porty in the mouth, as the vivid strawberry and raspberry flavors are streamlined and nervy, showing excellent lift. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins, very firm structure and outstanding length. 93-95 points 2004 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc $64.97 NET JR- Very good.....very traditional. Higher toned than the Roussanne-based whites with a notable mineral edge. This drinks like a cross between a GREAT Chablis and a dry Vouvray. Will age well. ST: Bright straw color. Fresh pear, minerals and a suggestion of floral honey on the nose. Lively and nervy, with well-focused flavors of dried apple, nectarine and tangy quince. Finishes bright and crisp. "I'd wait ten years for this," commented Avril. 91 points 2004 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc $46.25 NET JR- not dissimilar to the Clos des Papes Blanc, only a shade lighter and toned down. Delicious and ageworthy. 2004 Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc $32.50 NET JR- here's your Roussanne! Broad on the palate with some fruit tannin and a notably orange peel edge. This is lovely wine and a steal at this price.  |