FLIGHTS2 oz. tastes of three wines
THINK PINK 2007 Chateau de Pampelonne, Cotes de Provence, France 2007 Domaine Tempier Rosé, Bandol, Provence, France 2007 Kosta Browne Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast 13.05 The Chateau de Pampelonne is from the Cotes de Provence appellation. This estate on the Saint Tropez peninsula has a blend of 75% Cinsault and 25% Grenache. It shows a pretty transparent salmon pink color, is elegantly scented with peach, hawthorn and wild strawberries and has a satiny texture on the palate. The region does not have the prestige of Bandol, and as such, prices tend to be lower. Domaine Tempier, king of the Bandol region, is arguably the top rosé of Provence. The wine is mostly Mourvedre, with a mouth is full with minerality, plus the subtle taste of strawberry, herb and melon. Kosta Browne began as a dream shared by Dan Kosta and Michael Browne. In the summer of 1997, while working at John Ash & Co. restaurant in Santa Rosa, California, Dan and Michael decided to venture into winemaking. Their Rosé is comprised of 100% free-run Pinot Noir juice. Taste = bright cherry, rose and spice.
GREAT WHITES FROM ITALY’S NORTHEAST 2006 Jermann Pinot Grigio, Venezia Giulia 2006 Cantina Valle Isarco Pinot Grigio, ‘Aristos’, Alto Adige 2001 Gravner Ribolla Gialla, Venezia Giulia 18.85 In 1881, the Austrian Antonio Jermann settled in the Collio. Great-grandson Silvio Jermann has been one of the real pioneers of great white wines coming from Italy’s northeast. The vines for Jermann’s Pinot Grigio are grown in marls called ponca in Friulian dialect, which are typical in the Collio area. The wine is spicy with lots of minerality and a touch of citrus and herbs, plus a fruity finish. Founded in a traditional vine-growing area of Alto Adige, the Cantina Valle Isarco is the newest wine-making cooperative. This Pinot Grigio sees some barrel fermentation. It is floral, has tropical fruit, notes of bitter almond and vanilla. Gravner, a small winery near Oslavia in Northern Italy, straddles two appellations: Fruili and Venezia Giulia. The winery literally straddles the Slovenia-Italian border. It is run by Josko Gravner, who has been making wines in the same spot for more than thirty years.Since the 2001 vintage, Gravner has decided to make his wines exclusively in amphorae, leaving oak behind, just as he left industrial yeasts, sulfur, and even temperature controlled fermentation behind years before. Experience the otherworldly nose of pine forest and nut skin with flavors of Santa Rosa plums and sundried citrus...
FROGS WITH LEGS 2006 Jean-Luc Colombo, La Redonne, Cotes du Rhone, Rhone Valley 2007 Les Heriters du Comte Lafon Macon Blanc, Burgundy 2004 Domaine des Baumard Savennieres, Clos du Papillon, Loire Valley 14.20 Jean-Luc Colombo is a viticulturist, oenologist, consultant and negociant, The Cotes du Rhone covers 22 villages mostly in the southern, but also in the northern Rhone. His La Redonne includes juice from Condrieu; thus the wine is Viognier and Roussanne. Dominique Lafon was the first Côte d’Or superstar to expand his holdings into the Mâconnais. Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon produces wines ranging from generic Mâcon up to four single-vineyard wines. With the same biodynamic techniques as used in his Meursault domaine, Lafon has crafted a wine that shows lucious stonefruit, a touch of vanillin oak while the intense palate is a bit more reticent with tones of grapefruit towards a bone dry finish. Domaine des Baumard lies at the northern end of the Coteaux du Layon appellation. The domiane was established in 1634. The single-vineyard wine is from the Clos du Papillon, one of the two greatest vineyards in Savennieres for producing these 100% Chenin Blanc wines. Bracing, juicy yet concentrated, lemon, white pepper, flowers and herbs, finishing with chalk, salt and stone...
MORE FLIGHTS2 oz. tastes of three winesITALIAN STALLIONS 2003 Renato Corino Barolo, Piemonte 2003 Barrua, Isola dei Nuraghi, Sardegna 2003 Mastroberardino Taurasi, Radici, Campania 19.00 Corino, one of Piedmont’s most respected Barolo producers, has split into two estates. Brothers Renato Corino, 43, and Giuliano Corino, 38, spent 2006 finalizing the division of the 35-acre family estate, located in the Piedmont hamlet of Annunziata (a 5-minute drive from La Morra).Renato is now left with around 18 acres of vineyards of mostly Nebbiolo. All Baroli most be 100% Nebbiolo. The ‘03 shows ripe berry and cherry aromas, a hint of mineral, a full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins. Barrua is the first wine of the joint venture between the prestigious Sardinian winery Cantina Sociale di Santadi and Tenuta San Guido, home of Marchese Niccolo Incisa and, perhaps more importantly, Sassicaia. Giacomo Tachis is the oenologist for both Santadi and San Guido. Barrua is a 75-acre vineyard in southwest Sardinia. Made from 85% Carignano, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot, this is a lush, modern wine with dark fruit flavors and the sweetness of new French oak. Violet highlights, aromas of crushed fresh blackberries and a silky palate: a textbook expression of the Carignano grape. Taurasi is the only D.O.C.G. in Campania. The Taurasi district is up in the volcanic mountains east of Naples. The wines are 100% Aglianico, a deeply colored, thick-skinned variety that was brought to the Italian peninsula by the Greeks. It’s name is derived from the term hellenico (Greek). Mastroberardino has been greatly responsible for improving the fine wines of the area. Taste notes include black cherries, black currants, leather and cigar box.
SHADES OF TUSCAN SANGIOVESE 2003 Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Riserva, San Marcellino 2003 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2005 Ca Marcanda Promis, Maremma 25.45 Chianti is the most famous wine name in Italy is not the name of a grape but actually a region. Chianti lies in the 35 miles of hills between Florence and Siena, a complex geological region as well as geographically. The extraordinary geography makes grape growing a very challenging feat with multiple exposures and soil types on the same estate. The region comprises 9 different communes not dissimilar to Bordeaux wherein each commune has a particular characteristic that shows in the wine. The wine is made predominantly from Sangiovese, the grape must comprise at least 80% of the blend. Chianti Classico is the “classic” region, though many other nearby regions use the name “Chianti” to make similar wines. The “Gallo Nero” or Black Rooster on many of the Chianti Classico bottles is a private consortium of producers who try and control the direction of production and quality amongst their members. Rocca di Montegrossi is perched on the hills to the south of Gaiole in the heart of Chianti Classico. Owned by Marco Ricasoli, scion of the family which owns the famous nearby Castello Brolio. The estate’s top Chianti bottling, the 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva San Marcellino is made from 100% Sangiovese and spent 18 months in French Allier oak barrels. It reveals a powerful, brooding expression of scorched earth, tobacco, dark fruit and toasted oak. All Brunello is made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso grapes. Here it is hand harvested from the Altesino, Montosoli and Velona vineyards, then aged in large Slovenian barrels for three and a half years before bottle-aging of 4 months. The wine displays violet, wild berries, tobacco, chocolate, vanilla and fresh earth. In 1996, along the road between Bolgheri and Castagneto Carducci, Gaja began planting 150 acres of vineyards, primarily with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, but also Cabernet Franc and Syrah. The 2005 Promis is a blend of 55% Merlot, 35% Syrah and 10% Sangiovese. The three varieties are fermented separately and then blended in January or February after harvest. Aged for 18 months in new and slightly used barriques, followed by several months of bottle aging. Aromas of plum and meat follow through to a full-bodied palate, with soft tannins and a fresh, clean finish. |